An Overview of the Tire Making Process

Automotive Aftermarket

Tire manufacture is a complex process which also involves the extraction of latex from the rubber tree. The latex that oozes out of the tree are collected and sent to the tire manufacturing companies directly. Here it is processed and black sheets of rubber are produced. Tire manufacturing is a process which has several components in it that are said to be constructed in a drum called the Tire Building Machine (TBM). This is the only major equipment in manufacturing a tire. The machine can be manually operated. However nowadays all the tires are manufactured through automated process.

The inner liner is the first component in tire manufacture. It can with stand high pressure and does not allow the air to be escaped from the inner layer of the tire. Next comes the body ply. This is a three layer component of tire. The first layer is a sheet of rubber the second is a fabric layer and then again a rubber layer. It is said that this is the component that gives the tire a rigid strength that is able to carry the immense weight of the large trucks and buses. The next component is the side wall that gives good environmental resistance to the tires.

Beads are the steel lining in the tire. It is an important part in the tire as it gives the tensile strength to the tire. This still lining is coated with brass to avoid corrosion. The next component is the tread that gives a good grip to the tire. The thread is the depressions in the tire that will hold the tire on the ground in case of braking. Cushion gum is an extra component used in some tire manufacturing which seals the tear of the rubber by the steel lining in side the tire.

All these components are built one by one in side a tire building machine. Several other chemical components are mixed with them to get the needed strength in the tire. The tire that results as a result of the tire building machine is known as the green tire. This tire then undergoes curing process which will give the final product. Vulcanization is an important process in tire manufacturing. In this process the rubber is hardened to get the required strength and elasticity. This occurs naturally in this process when the raw rubber and molecular sulfur is mixed each other. It will close the pores in the rubber.

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January 22, 2012  Tags: , , , ,   Posted in: Automotive Aftermarket  Comments Closed

Winter RV Battery Storage

The two most common causes for RV battery failure are undercharging and overcharging.

Undercharging is a result of batteries being repeatedly discharged and not fully recharged between cycles. If a battery is not recharged the sulfate material that attaches to the discharged portions of the plates begins to harden into crystals. Over time this sulfate cannot be converted back into active plate material and the battery is ruined. This also occurs when a battery remains discharged for an extended period of time, like during storage. Sulfation is the number one cause of battery failure. The second leading cause of battery failure is overcharging. Overcharging batteries results in severe water loss and plate corrosion. With that said let’s look at how to properly store your RV batteries.

Before we talk about storing the batteries we need to talk about battery safety. Lead acid batteries contain sulfuric acid which is extremely corrosive and can cause severe burns or even blindness. And the hydrogen gas that batteries produce when they’re charging is very explosive. When you work around batteries you need to wear goggles and gloves, remove all jewelry and do not smoke or use any open flames.

Caution: If you accidentally get battery acid on your skin, flush it with lots of water and if it gets in your eyes flush with low pressure water for 15 minutes and call a doctor.

When you put the RV in long term storage it’s a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storage too. This is quite simple to do. The first thing we want to do is visually inspect the batteries for any obvious damage. Any fluid on or around the battery may be an indication that electrolyte is leaking from the battery. A damaged or leaking battery should be replaced immediately. Whenever you remove any battery always remember to remove the negative terminal or cable first, and then the positive cable.

Battery Tip: When you remove a battery turn off the ignition switch, all electrical switches, and any battery disconnect switches before you disconnect the battery cables. Whenever you remove any battery cables label them first so you remember how they go back on the battery. When you reinstall the battery do it in the reverse order. Install the positive cable first and then the negative cable.

Clean the batteries with a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water if necessary, i.e. use one pound of baking soda to one gallon of water. Now you can check the electrolyte level in each cell and add distilled water if necessary. The minimum level required is at the top of the plates. If it’s below the plates add enough distilled water to cover the plates before you charge the battery.

Test the battery state of charge with a voltmeter or hydrometer and charge any batteries that are at or below 80%. An 80% charge is approximately 12.5 volts for a 12 volt battery and 6.25 volts for a 6 volt battery. Lead sulfation starts when a battery state of charge drops below 80%. After charging the batteries check and fill each cell to 1/8 inch below the fill well with distilled water. Overfilling cells will cause battery acid to overflow.

Caution: Batteries should only be charged in a well ventilated area and keep any sparks and open flames away from a battery being charged. Check the electrolyte levels before and after charging batteries.

A discharged or partially charged battery will freeze much faster than a charged battery. Store the batteries in a cool dry place but not where they could freeze. Batteries in storage will loose a percentage of current through internal leakage. It’s not uncommon for a battery to discharge up to 10% a month when it is being stored. Cold temperatures slow this natural discharge process down and warmer temperatures speed the process up. Test the

stored battery state of charge every month and charge batteries that are at or below an 80% state of charge.

Completely charge the batteries before re-installing them next spring. For optimum performance you can equalize the batteries after they are fully charged. An equalizing charge is an increase in charging voltage similar to a bulk charge to convert any crystallized lead sulfate back into its original components.

If you decide to leave the batteries in the RV while it is in storage remember to check the state of charge monthly and charge any batteries at or below an 80% charge. Some RV converter multi-stage chargers and aftermarket chargers are designed to maintain a float charge on the battery without removing the batteries from the RV. Remember, for the converter charger to work the RV will need to be plugged in to electricity.

For more information on RV batteries check out our Deep Cycle Battery Care & Maintenance DVD.

Happy Camping,

Mark Polk

Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk, owner of RV Education 101

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January 17, 2012  Tags: , ,   Posted in: Automotive Aftermarket  Comments Closed

SPECDTUNING INSTALLATION VIDEO: 2004-2006 NISSAN SENTRA PROJECTOR HEAD LIGHTS

SPECDTUNING is proudly recognized as pioneers in the automotive industry for products and service. Our main goal is to provide the highest quality products at the lowest prices imaginable. The SPECDTUNING warehouse is the largest in Southern California carrying an array of aftermarket products. With a wide range listing from: Projector Headlights, LED Tail Lights, Third Brake Lights, Bumper Lights, Corner Lights, Front Grills, Bumper Lips, down to Headers. These are just a few items mentioned from the selection available. Furthermore, all the products are updated constantly keeping SPECDTUNING ahead in the industry for all makes and models of vehicles. Always prepared to serve every guest; please visit us at SpecDtuning.com for more info or call 909-839-2533 to start a wholesale account today or visit us at www.specdtuning.com. Staff at SpecDtuning are here and ready to help.

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January 15, 2012  Tags: , , , , , , ,   Posted in: Automotive Aftermarket  Comments Closed

How to Install a Manual Boost Controller Without Blowing Up Your Engine

Prior to installing any manual boost controller, it is important to have already added a high flowing exhaust and an aftermarket air intake/ air filter. This will ensure the car is able to breath, and will allow the turbo to spool easier.

It is imperative to have installed an aftermarket boost gauge. Most stock boost gauges are not accurate, even at stock boost levels, and lose further accuracy once stock boost is increased. Without an aftermarket boost gauge you risk damage to the engine from overboosting.

How It Works:

The wastegate actuator determines your stock boost levels. The boost controller interrupts the pressure line that runs into the wastegate actuator, allowing you to increase boost over stock levels.

Step 1:

Find your wastegate actuator which is usually attached to the turbo, unless you are using an external wastegate. The wastegate actuator will have a vacuum line port that runs to a boost source. The boost source is usually either the turbo’s compressor housing, the intercooler pipes, or the intake manifold. This vacuum line is where the manual boost controller will be installed. If there is a T fitting in the vacuum line between the boost source and the wastegate actuator, it will have a separate vacuum line that runs to the boost control solenoid. If you have the T fitting, remove the line that runs to the solenoid, but leave the solenoid plugged in.

The barb on the boost controller that connects to the wastegate actuator will have a small hole drilled into it. It is important to leave this hole open, and never switch the wastegate barb and the boost barb.

Boost controllers typically come with approximately 3 feet of vacuum line that you can cut into 2 pieces of desired lengths. The first piece will connect from the boost barb on the controller to your boost source. The second piece will connect from the wastegate barb on the controller to the wastegate vacuum port. Tip: if you have difficulty sliding the vacuum lines onto the barbs, use a little bit of oil to lube the barbs. Block off any open boost sources with vacuum caps and use cable ties to secure all vacuum line connections. We recommend using Premium Fuel with all turbo cars, especially once you have increased your stock boost.

Step 2:

Now that the boost controller is installed, it’s time to test the car. We recommend leaving the adjustment knob exactly where it was when you received and installed your MBC when you begin testing. Turning the adjustment knob clockwise increases boost, turning the adjustment knob counterclockwise decreases boost. This step is very important to keep an eye on your boost gauge to make sure you do not overboost and cause any damage to your motor.

Drive your car in an isolated area where you will be able to stop and go several times without interfering with traffic. Slowly press the gas and watch your boost gauge climb. If the boost gauge does not hit your target, increase the boost. If the boost begins to exceed your target, decrease the boost. Repeat the steps as necessary. It typically takes between 5 to 10 adjustments to get the boost exactly on your target. We recommend starting by adjusting the boost knob in 1/2 turn increments, and as you get close to your target you may need to make smaller adjustments. Never adjust more than 1/2 a turn at a time.

Each car has a maximum safe boost level, depending on upgrades to the vehicle and the characteristics of the fuel system, specifically how much fuel your pump and injectors can provide. It is important to research and know what the maximum boost level your specific car can safely run.

This guide serves as a basic starting point for manual boost controller installation. If you have an external wastegate or twin turbo vehicle, the installation technique may vary slightly.

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